Skip Navigation
State of Alaska Home Page

Parks Boating Safety Hist./Archaeology Grants Design Trails Volunteers Index
Natural Resources

Office of History and Archaeology - words
    State of Alaska > Natural Resources > Parks and Outdoor Recreation > History and Archaeology

Castle Hill Archaeological Project

Griffin, Lion-Eagle HybridCastle Hill, and ships in the harborGriffin, Lion-Eagle Hybrid

 

APPENDIX 9.3

REFERENCES MADE TO FABRICS AND CLOTHING

BY K.T. KHLEBNIKOV

(Compiled by Margan Allyn Grover, from Khlebnikov 1994)


When and at What Price Goods Were Purchased from Foreigners:

Frieze, 150 yards, 1805 - 2 piasters 14 cents, 1808 – 4p, 1810 – 20p, 1811 – 2p

Blue nankeen, 100 funts, 1808 – 1p 50c, 1811 – 2p

Large blanket, piece, 1808 – 3p 50c, 1811 – 2p

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 20, Table 2)


Goods traded by Mr Ebbets in Canton under contract with Mr Baranov:

4,000 pieces of nankeen – at 90 centimes

2,000 pieces of blue nankeen – at 1 piaster 20 cents

800 pieces of flesh-colored nankeen – at 90 cents<

300 pieces of black nankeen – at 2p 75c

200 pieces fustian – at 2p 75c

600 pieces of cotton – at 6p 50c

10 piculs velvet – at 28p

250 pieces of demi-cotton - at 1p 50c

10 piculs of thread – at 100p

55 pieces of seersucker – at 4p

595 silk waistcoats for 840p

500 pieces of silk material – at 9.20p

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 21-23)


Goods Issued in Sitkha to Mr O’Cain and Exchange of Same in Canton, 1806:

500 pieces of silk material, 6p 85c

200 pieces of silk material, 5p

147 pieces of satin, 20p 25c

50 packets of handkerchiefs, 9p 75c

70 pieces of satin, from 18p to 19p

150 pieces of satin, 16p 50c

30 pieces of taffetta, 12p 75c

28 catties of silk, 6p 50c

5 pieces of camelot, 26p

Mr Baranov continued to figure the piaster at the exchange rate of two rubles throughout his administration. Based on that rate, he marked up his prices by percent and imposed a tax on the sale of these goods in the colonies.

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 23, Table 1)


Prices Set by A.A. Baranov on Foreign Goods Sold in the Russian Colonies in America (after 1810):

Fine white nankeen, 8 14/16 arshins long, 9 vershoks wide, 3rubles in Sitka, 3r 50 kopecks in districts

[Dull] cherry nankeen, 14 arshins long, 7 1/2 vershoks wide, 4r in Sitka, 4r 20k in districts

>Black nankeen, 13 15/16 arshins long, 12 1/2 vershoks wide, 8r 80k in Sitka, 9r in districts

Half cotton, 14 1/4 arshins long, 8 vershoks wide, 5r in Sitka, 5r 50k in districts

White fustian, 14 1/4 arshins long, 8 1/2 vershoks wide, 6r 50k in Sitka, 7r in districts

Bengal linen, 1st sort, 47 arshins long, 10 vershoks wide, 21r in Sitka, 25r in districts

Bengal linen, 3rd sort, 47 arshins long, 10 vershoks wide, 18r in Sitka, 22r in districts

Bengal linen, 4th sort, 48 1/2 arshins long, 8 1/2 vershoks wide, 14r in Sitka, 18r in districts

Velvet, 89r 60k in Sitka, 18r in districts

Thread, 3r in Sitka, 4r 20k in districts

Seersucker, 7r in Sitka, 9r in districts

Velvet waistcoat, 7r in Sitka, 9r in districts

Taffeta, 22 1/2 arshins long, 29r 30k in Sitka, 35r in districts

Smooth foulard, 20 1/2 arshins long, 11 1/2 vershoks wide, 22r in Sitka, 28r in districts

Semi-dimity, 16 3/4 arshins long, 17r in Sitka, 20r in districts

Colored dimity, 23 6/16 arshins long, 65r in Sitka, 70r in districts

Black dimity, 23 arshins long, 16 vershoks wide, 62r in Sitka, 68r in districts

Trimming, 37 arshins long, 1 vershok wide, 60r in Sitka, 65r in districts

Silk [second rate], 23 1/2 arshins long, 1 vershok wide, 42r in Sitka, 50r in districts

Serge kerchief, 1r 75k in Sitka, 2r in districts

Silk, 16r in Sitka, 18r in districts

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 25, Table 3)


List of Newly Set and Old [until 1818] Prices on Principle Goods:

Bombazine, arshin, new price = 2r

Ordinary English cloth, arshin, new price = 8r

Flannel, arshin, new price = 1r 25k

Frieze 1st grade, arshin, new price = 6r, former price = 5r

Frieze 2nd grade, arshin, new price = 5r, former price = 4r 50k

Frieze 3rd grade, arshin, new price = 4r

Blue nankeen, piece, new price = 6r, former price = 4r

Bengal calico, piece, new price = 24r, former price = 18r

Silk scarves, piece, new price = 30r, former price = 22r

Atlas [silk material], piece, new price = 120r, former price = 65r 70k

Taffeta, piece, new price = 50r, former price = 29r

Black serge kerchiefs, piece, new price = 4r, former price = 2r

Canton cloth kerchiefs, piece, new price = 1r 50k, former price = 1r 20k

English cloth kerchiefs, piece, new price = 2r 50k, former price = 2r

English sole leather, piece, new price = 18r, former price = 12r

Baize blankets in 3 ½ marki, piece, new price = 12r, former price = 10r

Baize blankets in 3 marki, piece, new price = 10r, former price = 8r

Large, black nankeen, piece, new price = 10r, former price = 8r 80k

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 31)

 

Table showing the date and price of goods purchased from foreign merchants in
Novo-Arkhangel’sk, in Spanish piasters [and cents], 1818-1825.
(from Khlebnikov 1994: 103-105, Table b.)


Goods Measure 1819 1822 1823-24 1825
Large blankets Piece 3p 3p 3p 25c  
Frieze Yard 2p 2p 20c 1p 75c 1p 45c
Wool stockings dozen 4p      
Short nankeen Yard   81c    
Blue nankeen Yard   1p 65c    
Serge kerchiefs Packet   13p 50c    
Thread English lb.     3p 30c  


Prices of Provisions Purchased in California, 1818-1825.
(from Khlebnikov 1994: 111-113, Table d.)

Goods Measure 1818 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825
Thread Funt     2p     5p  
Silk Funt       16p   16p 16p
Broadcloth Vara 1p 50c 1p 1p 2c   6p    
Good calico Vara 2p 1p 4c 1p 4c     1p 1p
Medium calico Vara     1p 2c 1p 1p 6c 6c
Bengal calico Piece 15p 12p 10p   8p 9p  
Grey Flemish linen Piece 50p 48p 45p 50p 42p 35p 40p
Raven duck Piece 38p 25p 35p   50p 32p  
White Kiakhta nankeen Piece 4p   4p 4p   3p 2c 3p
Blue Canton nankeen Piece 3p 4c 4p   3p 4c 3p 4c 2p 4c  
Flesh-colored nankeen Piece   2p 4c 2p   2p 4p 3p  
Broadcloth Vara     12 12     12
Cloth, 6-golovk Vara 6p 4c 8p 4c 7p   6p   6p
Baize Vara 1p 4c 4p 2p 4c   1p 6c   1p 6c
Frieze Vara       3p 2c 2p 6c 3p 4c 2p 4c
Plush Vara 2p 4c 3p 4c 3p   3p 4c 2p 4c 2p 4c
Ordinary flannel Vara 1p           1p 2c
Double flannel Vara     2p 4c       1p 6c
Men’s cotton stockings Dozen 30p       24p 18p 1p 6c
Women’s cotton stockings Dozen       15p     1p 2c
Beaver hat Piece 6p 6p 6p 6p 6p    
Needles Thousand 3p 4p          
Spanish socks Piece   2p 2p 2p 2p 2p 2p 4c
Ticking Vara     9c 6c     5c


Payment for Furs Bartered from the Kolosh, 1821-1825:

1821 March, 1 sea otter, 2 large blankets for 24r

1821 April, 1 sea otter, 2 ½ arshins frieze for 22r

1821 April, 1 otter, 3 ½ arshins Flemish linen for 6r

1821 April, 3 medium otter, 10 arshins of calico for 12r 50k

1822 January, 2 river beaver, 6 ½ arshins Flemish linen for 11r 20k

1822 March, 3 cross fox, 3 large blankets for 36r

1822 November, 1 sea otter, 3 armor, native 15 slats and 3 arshins of frieze 26, 40 for 41r 40k

1822 June, 1 yearling, 1 blanket for 12r

1822 August, 2 otter, 10 arshins of calico for 12r 50k

1822 August, 1 medium bear, 5 arshins Flemish linen for 8r 50k

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 124, Table b.)


Extract from Price Schedule [for Foodstuffs] and Goods for 1825:

Thread, funt, 6r

Leather, iufta, funt, 2r

Leather, dubbed, funt, 1r 60k

Nankeen, large Kiakhta, piece, 9r

Nankeen, large Canton, piece, 10r

Blankets, large American, piece, 17r

Blankets, small American, piece, 11r

Blankets, large English, piece 18r

Blankets, medium English, piece, 14r

Frieze, best, arshin, 8r

Frieze, medium, 6r

Frieze, kamluk, arshin, 6r

Calico, best English, arshin, 3r

Calico, medium English, arshin, 2r

Calico, Russian, arshin, 2r 25k

Cloth, best English, arshin, 36r

Cloth, Holland, arshin, 25r

Cloth, ordinary, arshin, 10r

Cloth, calico, arshin, 8r 60k

Cloth, soldier, arshin, 5r

Cloth, Lenskoe, arshin, 1r 50k

Calico, each, 40r

Kerchiefs, pocket Bengal, each, 2r 50k

Stockings, cloth men’s, pair, arshin, 5r

Stockings, women’s cotton, pair, arshin, 3r

Stockings, cotton thread, pair, 2r 25k

Stockings, wool, pair, 2r

Cloth, Romanovskii, arshin, 60r

Ticking, strped linen, arshin, 1r 20k

Ticking, blue, arshin, 50r

Ticking, blue, arshin, 56r

Flemish cloth, each, 75r

Ravenduck, each, 50r

(from Khlebnikov 1994: 135-6, Table a.)


- Concerning calico, etc.

Calico, semi-calico and printed linens are generally used in the colonies. Even the Aleuts have grown fond of using this cloth, and therefore it has become one of the necessary demands for women’s clothes. Calico is used by the families of officials and clerks; the semi-calico is used by the promyshlenniks and Aleuts. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Nankeen.

The colonies prefer getting Cantonese nankeen because it is larger in size, and one piece of it is sufficient to make someone a coat or dress, and the price is almost the same as that of calico. When ther is no means of getting Cantonese calico, we can get Khiakhta nankeen, which is cherry-colored, glossy and non-glossy, and has great breadth. The Russian nankeen brought here on the ship Elena was of good quality, but it faded quickly, and could only be sold when needed. If the color of the cloth becomes more durable and does not fade, it may replace the Cantonese and Kiakhta nankeen. This would be more advantageous because it is cheaper. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning coarse calico.

Thin calicos are designated for the officials, while the grey American calico is used mainly in Sitkha for trade with the Kolosh, who are paid in calico for small fur pelts; to a certain extent, by established custom, this material has now become a barter good. The Kolosh who sell bear skins of various sizes, price them as 2,3, and 4 sazhens of calico or at 5, 7 ½ and 10 arshins. With the calico we buy sheep and other goods from them. At Ross, calico is used to pay the Indians for working the soil and harvesting grain. The Indians use the calico to wrap themselves in instead of using blankets. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning linen.

Linen (canvas-like) cloth is used mainly in hospitals and schools, for sheets, pillow cases, shirts and towels. In Sitkha this linen is exchanged for fish and other goods from the Kolosh. After supplying the hospitals and schools, the various offices sell this linen to the promyshlenniks and Aleuts so that they might make shirts out of it. At Nushagak they make shirts for the neighboring peoples; at Ross they make them for the Indians as pasyment for their chores. The unpacked linen is generally used to make shirts for the workers and Aleuts. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning ticking.

The promyshlenniks and Koloshes in general use ticking to make their shirts. The type they need are made of inexpensive linen. They rarely use half-cotton or full cotton cloth because of their cost. Ticks and deburets are used to make hospital robes, sheets and light work clothes. The Aleuts especially like these materials. They are also used by the Kenais and Aglegmiuts, who make women’s kamleiki out of them; these are exchanged for river otters. In California this material is in general use by the Indians because of its durability and is readily bought at the mission and by the Indians. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning sacking.

Sacks are extremely necessary in Sitkha in order to transport grain to the different offices, but because of the lack of them we have to ship the grain in piles and barrels. In the first case the grain is wasted and becomes damaged because of the dampness from being enclosed inside damp boards; in the second case, when shipped in barrels, it takes up more room on the ship and makes it hard to unload; and the worst of all, it is harder in places where the grain has to be unloaded at sea.

In order to buy wheat in California, it is always necessary to have up to 300 sacks to facilitate the loading of the ship. In Kad’iak sacks are needed to transport grain to the various offices; in Ross they are needed to transport the ground grain from the fields, to the stores and granaries. It would be more advantageous to send ready-made sacks from St. Petersburg; the sacks should be three-quarters of an arshin in width and one and a half arshins long in order to contain one fanega of wheat. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Flemish linen.


In Sitkha it is used to make tents for workers who work in the forests; it is used as a trade item with the Kolosh and to make light summer sailor’s clothing; part of it is sold in California. This linen is used by the various offices to mainly make sails for baidaras, tents, clothing for the workers and Aleuts. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning broadcloth.


During Mr. Baranov’s management of the colonies, frieze was generally used to make clothing; soon after it was replaced by linen; good soldier’s linen and the ordinary type of linen are comfortable for worker’s clothing. Russian and Aleut promyshlenniks buy them willingly; but there is competition among them because they want to have the best clothing for the holidays; that is why it is necessary to have linens of average prices; let us say 6 to 10 rubles per sazhen. Colors most used are blue and grey. The grey, dark-green, black and blue linens must also be of high quality; part of them are needed in California. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- About friezes, flannelettes and flannels.

art of the frieze cloth is designated for trade with the Kolosh; the rest, along with the flannelette and flannel, is used for winter clothing for the families of officials and workers. In the winter the temperature often reaches 10 to 15º celsius; since there are no pelts, except ground squirrel ones to make make winter clothing, the men and women need flannles and flanelettes to make their clothing. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- Concerning woolen cloth.

The dark-green is designated for use by the officials; the red by the Aleuts who use the threads to embellish their kamleika, parkas and baidarkas, etc. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)


- About blankets.

Large, medium and small blankets of very good quality are needed by the officials, workers and hospitals throughout the colonies. The blankets are used mainly as trade items for the sea otters with the Koloshes. This type of blanket must be medium, of average quality and cost 14 to 16 rubles. (from Khlebnikov 1994: 202-205)

For more lists of clothing see Middleton (1996: 117-120).





Last updated on Monday, September 21, 2009.
Site optimized for Netscape 7, IE 6 or above.
Not sure who to contact? Have a question about DNR? Visit the Public Information Center.
Report technical problems with this page to the Webmaster

left corner right corner